Video Arc Post #2: A Step-By-Step Tutorial of How to Use Miro Video Converter, Any Video Converter, and Handbrake
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Special note: Finding, Downloading, and Managing Media is considered to be the first post in this arc.
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Peoples’ interaction with video can be thought of as a pyramid chart, where the bottom is the largest percentile of people who watch videos on YouTube and Facebook, and the top of the pyramid is the small group of users that can take your home video and make it look as if it were produced in a Hollywood studio, then make it play on any device you want. As you get higher up the metaphorical pyramid though, there is a consistent need everyone shares: the need to convert videos from one format to another, while retaining as much quality as possible. Whether those videos are the raw FLV video file from YouTube, the obscure MKV file from a torrent, or the DVD rip of a movie, the need to convert a video file from one type to another is something many can identify with. Solutions to this problem range in difficulty from simply dragging a video file to an application and waiting for it to appear on your iPod to total control on every aspect of your video conversion. The choice between these two methods, between simplicity or total control, can be daunting though, and is often fraught with many hours, days, or even months of frustrating trial and error. That’s where this article comes in: in this article I am not only going to review three of the best video converters available as well as walk you through using each of them, but also introduce you to the key aspects of a video, why they matter, and what you need to do to make your video converter produce the clearest result possible.
Before I get to the meat of this article, here’s a quick flashback on a few articles I’ve posted in the past few months that relate to this one. In the other that I posted them, these areticles are as follows:
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Media
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Finding, Downloading, and Managing Media
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Torrenting Tips and Tricks
Most of the articles focus on using torrents, which are, in my opinion, the best manner in which to obtain videos, regardless of the type or quantity. If you are not familiar with the usage of torrents, I suggest you check out those three articles, and especially the first post in this arc, Finding, Downloading, and Managing Media. For those of you that are already well-versed in the usage of torrents, I suggest you check out Torrenting Tips and Tricks for a few tips and tricks I’ve picked up over the years regarding torrents .
Alright then, here we go. The first thing I’m going to do is familiarize you with some key terms. Learning these terms will make the rest of this article much more understandable and will help you get more out of this.
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The frame size, or resolution, of a video is its dimensions, generally given in pixel measurments. For example, a 480p video, which has a horizontal measurement of 640 pixels, a vertical measurement of 480 pixels, and an aspect ratio of 4:3, is displayed with the frame size of 640×480. Additionally, a 720p video, with an aspect ratio of 16:9, has a total frame size of 1280×720. Incidentially, there are also 1080p videos with a resolution of 1920×1080, but are not as commonly used as 720p videos, which are considered to be high-definition.
It is important to note the aspect ratio in these different definitions: it is an important fact that will determine the quality of your video once converted.
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Videos are simply a succession of still images. If you were to open any video in a decent video editor (Movie Maker definitely does not count), you would be able to move through the video by frames. Incidentially, animated GIF images are a great example of this, as they are simply a small succession of similar images giving the impression of an animation. The frame rate of a video is the speed at which those still images are cycled through your field of vision over a period of time, generally suffixed with the shorthand expression for frame rate: FPS (Frames Per Second). For more information on FPS, check out the Wikipedia article: Frames Rate.
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A codec is a device or program that enables compression and/or decompression for digital media such as videos and music. Generally, this compression is lossy, although this is not always the case.
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“Many of the more popular codecs in the software world are lossy, meaning that they reduce quality by some amount in order to achieve compression. Often, this type of compression is virtually indistinguishable from the original uncompressed sound or images, depending on the codec and the settings used.” (Source)
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Lossless codecs are typically used for archiving data in a somewhat comrpessed format while retaining all of the information present in the original file. “If preserving the original quality of the stream is more important than eliminating the correspondingly larger data sizes, lossless codecs are preferred.” (Source)
For the most part, I would suggest sticking with lossless formats when managing videos: once you lose quality, you can never ragain it.
Now that you’re familiar with some of the key terms discussed in this article, let’s move on to the rundown on the video conversion programs. The three reviews are seperated into three groups: simple, intermediate, and total control.
Simple:
By far the easiest video conversion program I have ever used is Miro Video Converter. Miro Video Converter, or MVC, requires you to preform three steps in order to convert a video: first, drag a video file into the Miro Video Converter window; second, choose the format, or device, you wish to convert the video to. Available options include MP4, MP3, iPhone, Zune, PSP–to name a few; finally, click the Convert button and wait for the video to be converted.
Part of the reason that Miro Video Converter is such an easy program to use is because it handles all the nitty-gritty details without needing any interaction from the user. Settings such as resolution, FPS, and various other parameters for the output video are automatically set depending on the device profile you select. This is great if you just want to convert that FLV file from YouTube to something you can play in Windows Media Player, but bad for pretty much everything else. To illistrate this point, consider this example: Suppose your device isn’t on the dropdown list of available devices to convert to. What do you do then? Which device profile do you choose? Therin lies MVC’s greatest weakness, which is, ironically, it’s main selling point: simplicity. This over-simplification is what eventually led me to search for another program.
Intermediate:
Any Video Converter has been my favorite video converter for quite some time. Any Video Converter, or AVC, makes converting any video file to virtually any format as easy as adding a video file, selecting the output profile (file format the video will be converted to), and clicking Convert. From this explanation, it would seem that there are few differences between Miro Video Converter and Any Video Converter, but that assumption is wrong: the explanation I just provided is only the tip of the iceberg. Before explaining how AVC out-preforms Miro Video Converter though, let me tell you a bit more about AVC.
Once a video is added, AVC will present you with various stats about the video that become invaluable when choosing settings for the conversion process. These stats include the file name, duration, the current video format, current framesize, current FPS, and the status, which is an indicator of whether the video file is waiting to be converted, in the process of being converted, already converted, or failed in the process of being converted.
Why are those stats valuable though? The short answer: quality. The more you know about the video you wish to convert to another format, the more quality you can retain in the conversion process. Remember earlier when I said to pay attention to the aspect ratio because it is an important factor in the conversion process? This is where that comes in: the single most important aspect of converting a video is the output resolution. In order to retain the highest level of quality, you must keep the output video’s aspect ratio as close to that of the original video’s aspect ratio as possible. So for example, if I had a 720p video, which we already learned to have the dimensions of 1280×720, converting it to have a resolution of 640×480 to play on my iPod would be disasterous because in doing so I’m changing the aspect ratio from 16:9 to 4:3. You can shrink a video all you want and it will remain clear so long as you retain an aspect ratio the same as or very close to the original video’s; it’s when you begin to change the aspect ratio that you run into problems. If I had proceeded with the conversion of a 720p video to 480p to play on my iPod, I would have viewed a result that was pixelated almost beyond recognition, especially when viewed on such a small screen.
The aspect ratio is not the only important factor in the conversion process though; maintaining a consistent frame rate is almost equally as important. In my explanation of video framerate above I explaned that the numeric FPS value is the speed at which still images are cycled through your field of vision. Let’s run through this example: suppose I have that same 720p video that I wish to play on my iPod. Now that I know converting it to a resolution of 480p is a horrible idea, I have decided to retain the aspect ratio and convert it to have a resolution of 640×360, effectively cutting the framesize in half. As a note, so long as you divide the length and the width by the same number, in this case 2, you will retain an aspect ratio close enough to the original to produce a crystal-clear video, assuming the original video was that clear. Having set the resolution for the conversion, what frame rate should I choose?
Let’s look at it this way: think of the video frame rate as a sandwitch, with the first piece of bread as the beginning of a second, the lettuce as a frame, the tomato as a frame, the mustard as a frame, etc, etc, until you get to the last piece of bread, which is the end of the sandwitch, or in this case the end of a second. Within a single second, x number of frames are cycled through your field of vision. For this example, suppose that number is 24. So in our hypothetical sandwitch, there are 24 ingredients between each slice of bread. Now suppose I chose to convert my video from 24FPS to 12FPS, because by having less frames the video will, incidentially, be smaller. Now think back to the sandwitch with 24 ingredients: if I wanted to make that sandwitch the same size as a sandwitch with 12 ingredients, I would have to squish that sandwitch and mash it up pretty well. We would be left with something resembling a sandwitch, but horribly disfigured and probably not edible anymore. The same goes for a video: as you try to decrease the output video’s framerate from that of the original’s, you are asking the video converter to squish more data into each frame than is already there, thus resulting static and pixelation in your video. See why the frame rate is important? To avoid this problem, I recommend using the original framerate of the video, which Any Video Converter conveniently displays for you near the name of each video.
What about going from 24FPS to, for the sake of an easy argument, 48FPS? Going back to the sandwitch example, what would happen if you took that sandwitch and tried to double the number of ingredients between the two slices of bread, but only by using the existing ingredients? In the sandwitch example, this would be impossible; however, when converting a video, this is possible. But, as you may have guessed, doing so will result in the same exact problem as halving the FPS: a pixelated video.
These two aspects–the aspect ratio of the video and the frame rate–are the two most important aspects of video conversion. If you can keep the aspect ratio and the frame rate the same when converting the video, you are guaranteed a video that is just as clear as the original.
Before continuing on, I would like to go over one final point. Throughout this article so far I have constantly assumed that you would be downsizing your video when it was converted, or keeping it the same size, but never assumed that you would be enlarging it. Why? One very simple reason: enlarging a video is probably the quickest way to lower the quality–even quicker than going from 720p to 480p. As with raising the FPS of a video past its original frame rate, enlarging the resolution is the same principle: trying to add data that is, quite simply, not there. To illustrate this point, go find a small picture on Google Images or your hard drive and open it up. Once it’s open, zoom in to 200%. You have now enlarged the picture, and it has become pixelated. The picture became pixelated because pictures are simply a collection of pixels grouped together and colored to form an image. When you enlarge that image, you must, in this case by zooming in to 200%, double the number of pixels in the picture. However, there are only so many pixels, so the computer must guess at what might be at x,y position and insert a pixel there without actually knowing what needs to be there to produce a clear image. The same goes for enlarging a video: when you ask the video converter to enlarge it by whatever percentage, you are asking the computer to insert data that simply is not there, so it resorts to guessing rather than telling you that you are asking for someting impossible. Keep that in mind.
Now that you know why the aspect ratio and the frame rate are so important, as well as why not to try enlarging a video, let’s move back to the tutorial on converting videos with Any Video Converter.
Once a video has been added to the conversion que in Any Video Converter, which is done by clicking the Add Video button at the top-left of the screen, the fun starts. The dropdown menu on the right side of the window–which is a list of different pre-sets for various conversion formats–allows for different conversion profiles to be chosen and then modified to fit your needs. For example, I can choose the Customized AVI profile, which will convert any video currently checked in the que to the AVI format once I click Convert. Once I have selected a profile, I can make various adjustments to the output video. These adjustments include changing the following aspects of the output video by selecting an option from one of the respective dropdown menus: video codec, resolution, video framerate, audio codec, as well as other options such as video codec and video bitrate to name just a few. From the explanation above, you will know how important these different aspects are.
Now that you know how to add a video, choose a profile, and convrt a video with Any Video Converter, let’s run through a short example. Suppose I’ve added that 720p video I was talking about earlier to the conversion que. To play it on my iPod, I need to use the Mobile Phone MPEG-4 Movie profile. After selecting it, I need to change the output resolution and make sure the frame rate is set to “Original” in order to keep the highest quality possible. However, the dropdown menu for the Frame Size option only gives me nine different options, none of which retain the aspect ratio of the original 720p video, or even come very close. I really only have one option: convert the video and deal with the pixelation. Or, rather than settle for a pixelated version of the 720p video taking up half a gig on my hard drive, I could use a different video conversion program. Unfortunately for me though, I was stuck choosing the former option for quite some time rather than the latter. That is, until I re-visited Handbrake.
Total Control:
I don’t really remember where I first heard about Handbrake from, but most recently it was during an episode of Hypercritical. For those of you who do not know what Hypercritical is, or don’t know anything about 5by5, please check them out. Hypercritical is a great weekly podcast featuring Dan Benjamin and John Siricusa, and 5by5 is an amazing podcast network that produces some of the best podcasts available to date. Anyway, John Siricusa made a passing mention of Handbrake on a recent episode of Hypercritical, and, since I was dissatisfied with Any Video Converter for the reasons stated earlier–namely that I did not have as much control over the conversion process as I would have liked–I decided to give Handbrake another try.
I say “another try” because I had tried Handbrake a few times in the past, but was not dissatisfied with Any Video Converter enough to motiviate me to learn how to use a new program. Therefore, I quickly uninstalled Handbrake and I went back to watching my pixelated videos from Any Video Converter. However, a few days ago I became annoyed enough at the lack of quality when playing videos on my iPod that I knew I needed something else. That something else, prompted by John Siracusa’s passing mention on Hypercritical, was Handbrake.
At first, Handbrake’s interface can be a bit daunting: with lots of buttons, quite a few dropdown menus, and a few dialogue boxes, Handbrake’s interface isn’t exactly the most intuitive. That is, until you learn how to use it. To help you learn to use Handbrake, let’s go through a tutorial to convert that 720p, AVI video to play on my iPod.
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First, look to the top, left-hand corner of the window for the button labeled Source. Once located, click it. A menu will pop down with three options: Video File, Folder, and Title Specific Scan. For now, ignore Title Specific Scan. Clicking Video File will allow you to select a single video file to convert; clicking Folder will allow you to select the “VIDEO_TS” folder on a DVD, which will rip the movie from the DVD and convert it. For this tutorial, I will assume you are converting a video rather than ripping from a DVD, so click Video File, select the video file from the Explorer window that pops up, and open it.
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If this is the first time you have ever used Handbrake, opening a video file will probably prompt an alert box to pop up informing you that you must select a default location for your output folder. To do this, click the Tools menu, scroll down to Options, and click it. In the General tab of the settings window, change the default output directory near the bottom of the screen. When finished, click close.
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Now that you have added a file to the conversion que and set a default output directory, choose whether you want the output video to be an MP4 file or an MKV file. Unfortunately, those are the only two video files you can convert to with Handbrake. If you need to convert to something else, I suggest you use Any Video Converter. In this tutorial, I will be converting to an MP4 file. To choose one or the other, click the menu and select either MP4 or MKV.
Beside the dropdown menu that allows you to choose either an MP4 video or an MKV, there are a few checkboxes: Large File Size, Web Optimized, and iPod 5G Support. For now, ignore those. If one is already checked, leave it checked; otherwise, leave them all unchecked.
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Beneath the Output Settings section there are a few tabs: Picture, Video Filters, Video, Audio, Subtitles, Chapters, Advanced. First, the Picture tab. The Picture tab is the default view when Handbrake opes and allows you to control the output file’s resolution, as well as crop the video if necessairy. In this case, since I am converting from a 720p video to one that will play on my iPod, the output file’s resolution needs to be 640×360 in order to retain the same aspect ratio as the original video and be playable on my iPod, so I have filled the two dialogue boxes with the values 640 and 360, respectively. If the boxes for inputting a height and width for a video are grayed out, change the Anamorphic dropdown menu to “None”, which will enable you to change those values.
Next, the Cropping section. To the right of the Size section, which is where you set the size of the output video, you can choose to crop the video. I generally choose the Custom radio button and leave all values set to zero so that I can be absolutely sure none of my video is cropped. I suggest you do the same.
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Now that we are finished with the Picture tab, click the Video Filters tab next to it. The Video Filters tab allows you to place certain effects on the video while it is being converted. Unless you are absolutely sure you want some effect applied to your video, I suggest you leave all filters set to “Off”. If you would like to preview what your video looks like with a certain filter on it though, Handbrake provides that ability.
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Go to the Video Filters tab and turn on any filters you wish to preview. I suggest turning on one filter at a time so that you can see exactly what adding that specific filter does to the video.
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Next, click the Preview button at the top of the screen.
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A long window will pop up asking you at what position you wish to start the preview at, and how long the preview should last. If you do not change either value, the preview will start at the beginning of the video and last for 10 seconds. Once you are satisfied with the start time and length of the preview, click one of the buttons to the right. On my computer, the buttons read “Play with QT” and “Play with VLC”. Depending on the media players you have installed on your computer, you could be seeing a different set of buttons.
Once you’ve told Handbrake which media player to play the preview with, Handbrake will begin encoding the video. Since it is only a small sample, the encoding process for the preview video is short. When the encoding is finished, the window will expand to fit the video preview. From this window you can watch the new preview video. As a side note, the preview video is saved to your default output directory so that you can view it later. If you preview a video more than once, all copies will be saved with a slightly different file name.
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When you are finished checking out the preview close the preview window. If you are unhappy with the result of adding any of the video filters, repeat the process with different filters or remove them. When you are finished previewing the video, hit the Start button to begin converting the entire video.
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Next, in the Video tab, there are two different sections: Video and Quality. In the Video section you can choose the video codec and the framerate for the output video. I prefer to use the H.264 video codec as its quality to size ratio is better than that of the MPEG-4 codec. However, using the MPEG-4 codec will cause the conversion process to go faster. If you have time to spare and want your videos to be of the highest quality possible, I suggest using the H.264 codec.
As we discusssed earlier, the framerate is very important to the quality of a video and should be left at the same level as the original. In Handbrake, the default is “Same as source”, which is what you want.
Over in the Quality section you can choose the target size, in MB, of your converted video. I would caution against using this feature, as I am not exactly sure what Handbrake does in order to achieve the targeted size; I would suspect, however, that the video quality is compromised. Instead of choosing the target size, you can instead set an Average Bitrate or a Constant Quality for the video. Unless something is already selected I suggest leaving the options in this section set as-is, and if nothing is selected I suggest leaving everything unchecked.
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The Audio tab, next in line, has a single section to it: Audio Tracks. This tab allows you to choose the audio tracks to be contained in the output video. There should already be at least one track in the area near the bottom of the screen; this is the audio track for the video. Unless you want a silent video, leave this track in there. There are a few different settings you can change regarding the audio track: Source, Audio Codec, Mixdown, Samplerate, Bitrate, and DRC.
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The Subtitles tab. For most people, this tab is probably the least important out of every tab in Handbrake. However, that is not the case for everyone. The Subtitles tab handles, as you’ve probably guessed, video subtitles. If the source video does not already have subtitles, you cannot add subtitles with Handbrake; that must be done with a video editor. If the source video does, however, have subtitles, simply click the dropdown menu menu and select the language you wish your subtitles to be in. Note that Handbrake will not convert subtitles from one language to another: if the source video has English subtitles, you must select English subtitles from the dropdown menu. Also note that even if a video does have subtitles, those subtitles are not guaranteed to appear in this dropdown menu. This is because some video files–MKV and MP4 to name the two most popular–are actually a sort of container file, where the audio, video, and in this case subtitiles too, are all seperate. In AVI files, for example, this is not the case, and so the subtitles of the AVI file would not appear in the Subtitles tab.
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The Chapters tab. Much like in a book, chapters in a video seperate that video into parts. In my experience this feature has been more of an annoyance than anything else, but in some cases, such as when converting a movie, for example, chapters may be helpful. To enable chapters in your output video, simply leave the checkbox labeled “Create chapter markers” checked; to disable the creation of chapters in your output video, uncheck that checkbox.
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Finally, the Advanced tab. Unlike most Advanced settings windows, the Advanced tab in Handbrake is truly advanced. Unless you know exactly what you are doing–something that would be nearly impossible to teach in a single bullet point–I recommend that you steer cler of this tab. Handbrake will handle all the necessary settings, so you don’t need to worry about them.
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Now that you’ve learned to use all of Handbrake’s tabs and tweaked the settings so they’re just right, you’re almost ready to start the conversion. Here’s a quick tip though: you can save the current video conversion settings as a Preset, meaning that you can load all the current settings at any time with a single click. To create a preset, simply click the Add button at the bottom of the Handbrake window. A small window will pop up asking you to name the preset. Name it someting descriptive–for example, I’ve created a preset for converting 720p videos to play on my iPod, which I have named 720p. Change the dropdown menu from “None” to “Source Maximum”, and check the checkbox labeled “Use Picture Filters”; doing so will make sure all the settings you have changed so far will be preserved in the preset.
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Assuming you are only going to convert a single video, you can now click the Start button at the top of the Handbrake window, which will start the encoding process. The progress of the encoding will be displayed at the bottom of the window. Alternatively, you can click the Show Que button at the top of the window to view the current conversion proress in more detail, as well as the conversion que.
If you wish to create a conversion que to convert multiple videos though, follow these steps:
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Open Handbrake.
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Add a video as you normally would.
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Next, either use the preset you created earlier or manually change the conversion settings for the video.
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Once you’ve set the video conversion up, click the Add to Que button at the top of the window between the Start and Show Que buttons. Clicking the Add to Que button adds the video that is currently set to be converted to the conversion que, and will also bring up the Encode Que window if it is not already open, displaying the current conversion que. From the Conversion Que window you can change the que order, as well as edit the conversion settings for a video in the que. To change the conversion settings for a video in the que, simply right-click the video you wish to change and click Edit. Now go back to the main Handbrake window, make changes to the conversin settings, and then hit Add to Que again.
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To add another video to the que, simple follow steps 2-4 for each video you wish to add to the que.
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At any time during the process of adding videos to the que you can start the conversion process. Once the conversion process starts you can add, remove, or change the order of any video in the conversion que. The video currently being converted is not displayed in the conversion que, so you don’t have to worry about messing up the encoding process by shuffling the order around a bit.
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